Whether you see yourself owning a Great Pyrenees for a Companion, Show and Breeding or exclusively for Working/Guarding purposes, we feel it may help you to understand the philosophy of the Maple Way breeding program.
The Great Pyr is and has always been a wonderful family and personal companion, as well as a great worker and guardian of family and flock. As all Pyrs should be equipped with these skills and qualities you will notice that we most often refer to our "pet quality" Pyr pups as Companion/Working quality and to the ones that are "show and breeding quality", Show & Breeding/Working quality, though Show and Breeding/Working dogs are wonderful companions as well. There may be on occasion, pups/dogs that would not be suited for showing, breeding or working but that would still make wonderful companions. We would refer to these as just Companion quality.
A Show and Breeding/Working quality Pyr has specific qualities that a Companion/Working quality Pyr does not, the difference is often not noticeable to the average pet owner.....flat paws, loose eye lids, to name a few, doesn't usually effect a spayed or neutered pet. Of course, no dog is perfect.....just the best possible dogs must be bred together in order to try to keep the breed as it should be, since the fact is that if the two most perfect dogs were bred together, pups with certain problems would still occur. Don't breed a fault to a fault. Every dog has some faults but the good qualities must overrule the imperfections. So if one were to breed dogs that are not of breeding quality the result would bring the breed down, as most if not all of the pups would have such faults, and so on, getting worse with each generation and hindering the breed in its original purpose. As well, a "show and breeding/working" Pyr should not have a problem working/guarding. If it cannot or will not, it is "pet" quality. The original purpose of the breed was to guard flocks with uncanny abilities and independent thinking.
Remember, however, even though they can, will and have fought and killed wolves, bear, etc. (when the need arises) THEY ARE NOT ATTACK DOGS. They are gentle, loving companions & guardians and should stay that way.
*****It should be pointed out that in the wild, wolves, dogs, etc. have a higher-archy which decides which animals will eat first, breed, etc. The stronger, healthier and typier (best physical and mental design for it's original purpose) animals are Alpha and are the only ones that breed and produce offspring. The Alphas make sure the others, less suited for procreating, do not breed. When domesticated it is up to humans to make the selection of which will breed. We must try to select correctly.*****
The purpose for ever breeding two dogs together should only be for the love and preservation of the true Pyr, or whatever breed you're in. If anyone thinks they'll be making a profit, they're sadly mistaken. Any and all money made from selling pups ultimately goes back into the upkeep of the dogs.....necessary canine activities, etc.....vaccinations, worming, emergencies, cesareans, shows, obedience class, etc. If someone you know or have talked to says that a profit is made, either they don't know what they're talking about, are talking about a puppy mill {Which does not care for the dogs. Each dog is bred every estrus from the first estrus until it can't any longer (about three years of age under these conditions), receives little or no veterinary care or personal attention & is confined to a very small cage it's whole, short, "life".} Or they are talking of a well meaning but ill informed "backyard breeder" who also doesn't give the proper care of parents and puppies as they know no better.
*****The term "Backyard Breeder" is simply used to describe someone who breeds dogs without educating themselves about the breed or reputable breeding. They often are simply well meaning but naive about genetic diseases in that particular breed and proper breeding, screening of homes and placement of pups to try and ensure they do not end up in pounds, shelters, breed rescue or bad homes. Sometimes, they may be in it "for the money" as a small scale puppy mill. Some "byb's" do not keep their dogs in the backyard while many reputable breeders do have their dogs in the backyard. It's simply a term used.*****
Unfortunately there is the problem of many people thinking just because they don't want to breed "show dogs" the quality of the dog doesn't matter. Originally it was only shepherd/farmers who bred them but they took it very seriously and knew the requirements for a good working dog. Of course the standard of excellence for the breed is written from the requirements of these shepherds to describe the perfect guardian and therefore type, temperament, bloodlines, genetics, health, etc. do matter.
There are also those who just want to breed "pets" and think pet quality parents will be fine. I believe they are somewhat harder to convince, as the LGD (Livestock Guardian Dog) breeders at least want good workers which require correct temperament and conformation to do the job right.
Still others are the ones who seem to be into big, fluffy, "pretty" dogs, simply for the current fad of the showring and never give a second thought to whether the dog could work if it had to. It is extremely frustrating and I wish I knew a better way to get the message across to all involved. A true Pyr will be an all around Pyr.
I first fell in love with the breed at the age of six. That's when I began watching the animated version of Belle and Sebastian. Belle, being a beautiful Great Pyrenees with a noble and courageous heart, willing to do anything for the boy she loved.....Sebastian, captured my imagination.
Everyday I would come home from school, sit in front of the TV and eat supper while I watched Belle, Sebastian and Poochie (the little dog) in their dramatic adventures.
I began saving for my very own Pyr, which took about two years. I then had to wait another two years before I actually bought one.....a beautiful wolfgray marked girl I named Belle.
Now, after twenty years and studying everything I can get my hands on (in terms of Pyrs, canines in general, genetics, etc.) I can happily say that the character of Belle still takes my breath away and tears of joy still fill my eyes when I watch the individual Pyr representing the breed at the Westminster each year.
The stipulations you will read in the Purchase Agreement and attachments have been included to enhance the lives of both dog and purchaser. In addition we hope to insure protection against the pitfalls that have genetically damaged other wonderful breeds in the past.
If the Great Pyrenees turns out to be the right breed for you, we are sure this will be one of the most rewarding experiences of your life.
Note: Although the History of the Breed mentions that the Great Pyrenees was once referred to as "Pyrenean Mastiff", the name now refers to a totally different breed used for some of the same purposes but on the Spanish side of the Pyrenees Mountains and is much larger and heavier than the Great Pyrenees. The Pyr Mastiff also must have coat markings that are usually of a darker color and may either have double, single or no back dewclaws where as Grt. Pyrs can be all white or marked with specific shades as well as must have their back double dewclaws.
Le Chien de Montagne des Pyrenees is the French name for Great Pyrenees and Pyrenean Mountain Dog is the British name.
Mastin de los Pirineos is the Spanish name for Pyrenean Mastiff.
Quibbletown and Karolaska are the base of our breeding program with some European lines coming in with our Swedish import, Cotton. The previous links will take you to tons of information on Quibbletown and pages available on Karolaska. We hope to soon have a page available on the European lines.
Sir Sullivan From Maple Way, "Sully" at 7 weeks old. Was "Billy" with us, now residing with Frank and Christina Dotson & family in St. George (Parsons), WV. Parents are Moses and Kayla.
Shampoo/Conditioner "recipe" for removing stains.
Shampoo:
In a gallon milk jug combine a cap full of "All" brand fabric detergent, a few sprinkles of flea powder (just in case), cap full of fabric bluing (the bluing cap), squirt of Dawn dishwashing liquid and a tablespoon or so of Orvus WA Paste livestock shampoo. Add some hot water, shake well, add warm water, shake some more. Test temperature before using.
Conditioner:
In half to one gallon jug combine cap full of "Nice and Fluffy" brand fabric softener, flea powder and regular conditioner. (May add a splash of distilled vinegar if the dog has oily skin.) Add some hot water, shake well, add warm water, shake more. Test temperature before using.
Brush dog.
Wet dog, shampoo feet and legs, then belly, tail, neck, sides, back, head (be careful with eyes) and face. Rinse well. Shampoo with regular shampoo to remove bluing, detergent, etc. and rinse well again. Pour conditioner mix over dog and massage into coat. Rinse well. Dry and brush dog.
Although none of our dogs have ever had a reaction, some dogs may be allergic to this. This is also not for regular baths but for getting a really dirty dog clean fairly fast.
Note: Do *not* use too much bluing. I did once on a rescue and ended up with a Pyr with light blue markings. {big grin :-D } If your dog does turn blue, don't worry, it will go away eventually.
